Perennial bulbs used for companion planting are quite versatile in the homestead garden. Not only do these plants flower reliably, but they also attract pollinators, are often edible, and can sometimes even repel deer and other pests. If you’re a budding permaculturist, you’ll love the five perennial bulbs (and bulb-type plants) we discuss in today’s article because of how well they thrive in most environments and stack functions in the garden.
Perennial Bulbs for Companion Planting
As we make plans for the homestead’s gardens, it’s important to include as many perennials as our landscape will hold. We discuss several of the reasons for this below, so if that’s a new idea for you, hang on.
As we’re considering placement of these perennial plants, it’s beneficial to plant them in groups, often referred to as companion planting, or with a little more design, guild planting. For suitable companion, or guild plants, it’s good to consider trees, vines, shrubs, low growing plants, and ground covers.
But have you thought lately about perennial bulbs used for companion planting, or as guild plants? Today’s article will cover:
- A brief explanation of perennial and biennial plants, including bulbs.
- Some benefits of companion planting and what it means to “stack functions”.
- A quick sketch of the difference between bulbs, corms, rhizomes, and tubers (the bulb-type plants I mentioned).
- Plant profiles for 5 perennial bulbs and bulb-type plants, as well as reasons you might want to plant them in the garden.
- Resources for learning more!
What Types of Plants Come Back Every Year
Any plant that comes back into production year after year without re-planting by the gardener is a perennial plant. The life span of a perennial plant varies from species to species but you can count on many years of growth from most of them.
Perennial plants are vital assets in the gardens and landscaping of the homestead. These plants put down strong roots systems that:
- Prevent erosion
- Encourage beneficial soil critters (soil ecology)
- Hold nutrients in the soil
- Provide organic material in the soil in the form of dead root shed (as well as fallen leaves, stems, and bark above ground)
Common examples of perennial plants you might be familiar with are:
- Elderberry
- Rugosa Rose
- Chives
- Lemon Balm
Other Plants that have a two-year life cycle are known as biennials. Common examples of these are:
- Carrots
- Kale (and others in the Brassica family)
- Hollyhocks
- Foxgloves
What Type of Bulbs Come Back Every Year?
They may not have the advanced root systems of something like an elderberry, but perennial bulbs can be just as useful in the homestead garden. Not all bulbs can be considered perennials, especially in challenging climates. However, there are several that stand out in the crowd of options as being particularly useful to a homesteader, gardener, and permaculturalist.
These perennial bulb (or bulb-type) plants are favored especially for their ability to work well with other plants, often called companion plants. Companion plants are grouped together for a variety of reasons such as:
- Attracting beneficial insects.
- Providing shelter for beneficial insects.
- Repelling non-beneficial insects and wildlife like deer.
- Creating copious amounts of foliage (often referred to as biomass) that can be used as green manure or fodder for compost teas.
- Providing shade to cool the soil and other, smaller plants in the group.
Sometimes one plant can provide several or even all of these benefits! In permaculture, the ability a plant has to perform multiple desirable jobs is called stacking functions. The more functions they can stack, the more we want to try to use these plants in the garden.
If you’d like to learn more about this concept, especially how it might apply to your vegetable garden, please read the article:
—>>>Create a Vegetable Plant Guild in 7 Steps<<<—
What is a Perennial Bulb Plant?
Before we get into each perennial bulb profile, let’s quickly discuss what I mean by “bulb” and “bulb-type plant”.
A bulb is basically a tiny pantry that stores food for its plant and enables it to leaf out and flower every year. Some bulbs are round (like grape hyacinth bulbs) and some are weird looking with knobs or finger-like roots (like hostas).
There are basically four different kinds of bulbs:
- True bulbs like daffodils are self-contained and send up leaves, a stem, and a flower every year. To propagate itself, a true bulb will form smaller bulbs down at its base which can be re-planted or left to naturalize.
- Corms like crocus which are short and squatty and usually have a paper-like casing. Many produce baby corms that can be planted elsewhere to grow new plants.
- Tubers like dahlias are really fat roots that are fleshed out with nutrient storage, just like a true bulb.
- Rhizomes like irises which are similar to tubers but which like to punch through to the soil quite often. The original rhizome will eventually die and can be left to feed the soil. You’ll need to move some rhizomes to fill in gaps, if they need filling.
So, when I say “bulb” I mean several different types of bulbs. Please read the following article from Penn State Extension for more information on Bulbs, Corms, Tubers, and Rhizomes.
5 Perennial “Bulbs” for Companion Planting
I’ve assembled a list of my favorite perennial bulbs for companion planting. This list isn’t exhaustive, but it is representative of the perennial bulbs that have consistently performed well in my gardens and orchards (fruit tree guilds).
- Crocus
- Daffodil
- Daylily
- Hosta
- Jerusalem Artichoke
When Should I Plant Perennial Bulbs?
Depending on your climate, you may only be able to grow a few of these, though most of them are highly adaptable. Spring blooming bulbs are planted in fall before the soil freezes but temperatures have reduced to cool. Planting in fall gives the bulbs more time to acclimate to their new environment and enjoy a dormant period before they need to start producing.
However, the decorative summer flowering bulbs like canna lily, gladiolus, begonias, and tuberose can all be planted in the spring.
Some bulbs like Saffron Crocus require are long period of acclimation before they bloom, even up to a year. Don’t worry, though, if you’ve prepared the soil and you’re in the right growing zone, your bulbs will emerge.
Please Note: Bulbs that are usually planted in the fall can be planted in the early spring before the soil warms but is no longer frozen. If, for some reason, you have bulbs that didn’t get planted in the fall, go ahead and plant them in the early spring soil. They may take an extra year to flower, but they’ll grow.
Be Careful of the Bulb Leaves, Please!
The foliage of all bulb plants acts as a pantry of nutrient storage for the bulb beneath the surface of the soil. Don’t mow down or otherwise disturb bulb leaves until they’ve finished dying back and turning brown.
This is where using bulbs as companion plants comes in handy! Couple early blooming bulbs with plants that flower and leaf out just as the original bulb foliage is starting to die back. This accomplishes several desirable things:
- The emerging plants will hide the dying foliage of the bulb to keep the garden aesthetically pleasing.
- As the bulbs die back, they need the protection of the maturing plants around them so you don’t mow them down or step on them.
- The more plants available to each other in a companion planted ecosystem (in permaculture, we call this a guild), the more the soil is shaded and kept moist, and the more beneficial insects (above the soil) and microbes (below the soil) are attracted to the area.
Always Add Mulch to Bulbs
The majority of bulbs require that their soil be kept evenly moist, especially while they’re developing. The easiest way to accomplish this is to:
- Use bulbs as companion plants so they’re never alone in the soil.
- Apply an even layer of mulch material no deeper than 3-4″ (so that emerging bulbs can easily find the sun when it’s time).
- Water deeply once a week in hot weather.
Some bulbs favor dryer conditions than others; these are usually the native bulbs (referred to as “species bulbs”), which are found in areas like the Mediterranean (like crocus) and Turkey (like tulips). However, companion planting and mulch are always a good idea regardless of species!
Crocus, Crocus spp.
Depending on your winter conditions, you might see crocus pop up as early as January – even in the middle of the snow! Crocus is actually a companion plant bulb that is a corm, which enables them to propagate and spread easily. (If they end up in a place you mow, they might be done growing for the year before you’re ready to cut grass.)
Crocus are cup-shaped flowers with pistils full of pollen which attract early pollinators. This may be one of its most important functions as a bulb companion plant (or permaculture guild plant). Pollinators that activate with bouts of warm weather have a difficult time finding food in the later winter/early spring. Feed the bees (and others) with your perennial bulb companion plants!
Crocus are usually fragrant, too, and unattractive to deer. Sadly, rodents love them. Companion plant with other bulbs like daffodils, grape and regular hyacinth, and snowdrops which all deter rabbits and mice.
The famous Saffron crocus (Artemisia dracunculus) is the variety that produces the orange spice, saffron. These aren’t a prolific variety but they are easy to grow. Some light soil with great drainage will do. The corms are planted in the fall and bloom in the fall.
Little trivia: Saffron is the most expensive spice by weight in the world. It can also be used as a natural yellow dye, though it’s not as strong a dye as something like weld.
Cultural Requirements for Crocus:
- Sun: Full Sun/Part Shade (They bloom before deciduous trees leaf out.)
- Soil: All Soils – Well drained
- Hardiness Zones 3–8
Crocus is adaptable to many environments, even hot and dry ones, but does NOT prefer ambient humidity.
Fun Fact: This plant has been used as a wellness herb for centuries in Chinese and Indian modalities alike. Even modern medicine has its eye on crocus, with studies being done as recently as the worldwide health even we all experienced in 2020.
Companion Plants for Crocus:
- Plant it next to your beehives in mild winter areas and in your pollinator/butterfly gardens everywhere.
- Other blue perennials like phlox, bluestar, lungwort, catmint, and brunnera will emerge slowly after crocus fades creating a little blue pocket in your garden.
- Daylilies and hostas can be ringed with crocus and other early bulbs.
- Low-growing spring bulbs like grape hyacinth and scilla make lovely companions; Modern Homestead Mama can teach you how to make syrup with grape hyacinth flowers!
Daffodil, Narcissus spp.
Among the first to bloom in spring, daffodils are probably the most recognizable perennial bulb. With their starry petals and trumpet-shaped faces, they come in all shapes, colors, and levels of fragrance. They serve you well in the orchard, too, since deer don’t trust them and rodents don’t care for them. The animal life is smart because daffodils are toxic!
Not only are daffodils an important bulb companion plant, but they’re also a reliable market garden bloom. You can pick them at bud swell and bundle them for sale to open for your farmer’s market customers a bit later. Though the vase life of a daffodil is only about a week, they are a popular cut flower because of their bloom time. Come early spring, we’re so happy to see their color!
Cultural Requirements for Daffodil:
- Sun: Full Sun/Part Shade
- Soil: Prefers Loamy & Moist
- Hardiness Zones 4–8
Companion Plants for Daffodil:
Daffodils can really be planted with anything, but there are a few things to consider:
- Don’t plant them with other root crops because you will disturb the daffodils when you harvest. Daffodils need to remain undisturbed while they gather nutrients after flowering so they can flower next year.
- Perennial bulbs can be planted in your annual vegetable garden to draw pollinators and deter pests, but plant them at the perimeter so they remain undisturbed.
- Daffodils will often naturalize, so don’t plant them anywhere you don’t want more daffodils. Or be prepared to dig up some daffodils in fall to move them to new areas (which you may end up doing anyway if they become too dense).
- Bulbs like daffodils draw early pollinators, so don’t plant them where there’s a lot of foot traffic if you have concerns about disturbing bee lines, etc.
Daylily (Hemerocallis spp)
Daylilies are leafy perennials that have a unique bloom cycle. The bulbs produce dozens of flowers from each stem that will only bloom for about 24 hours. (Hemerocallis means “Beauty for a Day”.) Though they don’t deter deer and are toxic to cats (though my cats don’t ever bother mine), daylilies are of great interest to beneficial insects.
A great feature of these perennial bulbs is that they tolerate both a bit of drought and even light flooding and wet feet. I plant daylilies in my rain gardens which capture the excess rainwater as it moves across my landscape during a storm. These plants pop up after harsh summers and cold winters, getting stronger and more lovely with each passing year.
They are also edible from top to bottom. New shoots and flowers can be used in salads, while the tubers can be boiled like potatoes.
Cultural Requirements for Daylily:
- Sun: Full Sun
- Soil: All Soils (Prefers Loamy; Tolerates Light Sandy and Clay)
- Hardiness Zones 3–10
Companion Plants for Daylily:
Daylilies are great companions for most plants with similar cultural requirements, namely full sun and a laid-back disposition towards flooding and drought alike. If you have them planted in the rain garden, only pair daylily with plants that can tolerate wet feet like elder berry and willow.
If you have them planted in places with better drainage, consider the following companion plants:
- Daffodils & Iris
- The robust and equally hardy Shasta daisy; also Echinacea & Zinnia
- Sedum, Mint, & Other Non-Fussy Ground Covers like Ajuga
- Roses & Other Sun-Loving Shrubs
Daylilies make a great guild plant in the orchard and may provide shade for low-growing spring ephemerals like late-blooming crocus.
You can plant daylilies in the annual vegetables garden, too, to attract pollinators, shade the soil, and keep deep roots in the dirt to mine nutrients, excrete plant sugars, and prevent erosion. If you can’t tell yet, I really love daylilies!!
Hosta (Hosta spp.)
Prized for its beautiful green foliage, delicate flowers, and its ability to grow in shade, hostas are a lovely choice for a perennial bulb companion plant. Their large leaves shade and cool the soil and create lots of biomass by the end of the season.
As a bonus, hostas are even edible! Read this article from Practical Self Reliance to learn more about the edible aspect of hostas.
Cultural Requirements for Hostas:
- Sun: Shade/Part Shade
- Soil: Loamy & Well-Drained
- Hardiness Zones 3–9
Companion Plants for Hostas:
- Ajuga, aka bugleweed – a fantastic ground cover
- Lamium, aka spotted dead nettle – another lovely ground cover
- Dicentra, aka bleeding heart – fellow shade lover with delicate, drooping blooms
- Viburnum – a large family of flowering shrubs, many of which bare fruit (like high bush cranberry).
- Hydrangea – similar to the viburnum family but with showier flower heads
Start Thinking Like a Guild
It’s important to stop for a moment and give ourselves a little challenge. Try to think like a functioning plant guild or collection of companion plants. (FYI, the main difference between the two is that a guild will have a central perennial plant like an apple tree or an elder berry bush with useful plants/companion plants around it.)
Consider:
- How the plants can serve each other
- If they can improve the ecosystem where they’re planted
- Produce food or mulch for the group
- Produce food, mulch, or medicine for humans
- Produce food for pollinators
If we use the hosta bulb companion plants as an example, here are some thing we can observe:
Each of these plants help each other and the little eco-system they create when planted together. Beginning with our perennial bulb (hosta), and moving out to groundcovers which hold moisture in the soil and keep it cool while suppressing weeds. The dicentra attracts small pollinators but it also provides a splash of color in an otherwise shaded and green group of plants.
The viburnum family makes it onto permaculture guild plant lists because they’re hardy, produce flowers, and very often fruit. They’re also deer resistant, drought tolerant, make an excellent hedgerow or privacy fence. These plants include varieties like arrowwood, cranberry, spice, snowball, and more.
Hydrangeas are a gorgeous addition that can be swapped out with viburnum or planted alongside it.
In a shady or semi-shady spot in your yard that might otherwise only have grass, you can plant these companion plants together in a small guild with the viburnum in the center and the others arranged around it. Where once was a shady, boring spot there will be abundance and life. And it all starts with one little hosta bulb.
Jerusalem Artichoke, Helianthus tuberosus
Also called sunchokes, Jerusalem artichokes are reliable producers of edible tuber-type roots. They have a flavor similar to a water chestnut and can be boiled and mashed, or sautéed and stewed.
They are prolific growers and can serve several purposes as a bulb companion plant. The tubers grow easily and can keep the soil loose. The large flower stalks produce large amounts of biomass for compost. The sunny yellow flowers attract pollinators and other beneficial insects.
Sunchokes are also useful for humans. The stalks make an excellent privacy screen or windbreak, and the tubers are a reliable root vegetable. (FYI, they can cause stomach upset in some people, so begin slowly with them in the kitchen.)
The stalks can also be fed to livestock, which is desirable as the cost for feed continues to rise!
Cultural Requirements for Sunchokes:
- Sun: Full Sun/Part Shade
- Soil: Well-Drained & Moist
- Hardiness Zones 3–9
Sunchokes are a native plant to North America and grow so well as to almost be considered invasive. If you want to control growth, bury a large, wide container into the soil and plant inside that. This will help you be sure to harvest every tuber so the plant can’t reproduce anymore!
Companion Plants for Sunchokes:
Sunchokes are allelopathic so keep them away from dainty crops like peas and lettuce. Here’s an explanation of allelopathy in our article Create a Vegetable Guild in 7 Steps:
Experimentation is the best way to learn what performs well in your area and in your garden. However, be aware that some plants have allelopathic characteristics, which means they can harm or stunt the growth of other plants. These plants produce biochemicals that are basically in competition with other plants chemicals in the soil.
In spite of that, they actually make good companion plants for:
- Joe Pye Weed & Chicory, which are both hardy native plants.
- Borage & Lemon Balm, which are both hardy herbs that grow prolifically.
- Daylily also makes a good companion plant for Sunchokes
You can also use sunchokes to deliberately choke out weeds. Chop and drop that massive amounts of leaves and stalks that sunchokes make and lay them down in their own grow bed. Over time, the weeds will disappear and the soil will be fertile and loamy.
This is like companion planting in reverse; or rather, assassin companion planting. Mwuahaha!
Perennial Bulbs – Miniature But Mighty!
These little perennial bulb ecosystems provide habitat for wildlife and beneficial insects, as well as food for both humans and the soil. As the ecosystem matures over time, the abundance spreads.
With some initial effort to set up the growing space, and then to provide mulch and water, you will have cycles of production that started out with only a handful of perennial bulbs. That just seems like magic to me!
So, which perennial bulbs would you like to try out in the garden? For most, you have until fall to decide, so start making some plans right away! If you’d like help planning guild that include companion plants and perennial bulbs, join our newsletter family to download the free sheets we’ve provided below.
It would be really nice if there were a printer friendly version of these blog articles.
That’s a great idea, Laurie! There will eventually be a permaculture for homesteaders book – it’s in the works. In the meantime, I’ll go poke around IT and see if there’s a simple way to make the articles printable.
Have a great day!
So, I’ve looked at a few things and the easiest thing for you is to simply right click, copy and paste, dump into a Word doc, and hit print! It’s not glamorous, but it is straightforward and simple.
You can remove all the pictures to make it more print-friendly.
Honestly, this is why I write the books – so everything is in one, convenient resource.